{"id":1033,"date":"2026-06-15T14:12:26","date_gmt":"2026-06-15T14:12:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/corporate-movers-usa.com\/?p=1033"},"modified":"2026-06-15T14:12:26","modified_gmt":"2026-06-15T14:12:26","slug":"the-pastry-chef-bringing-a-slice-of-italy-to-kensington-is-up-for-a-james-beard-award-tonight","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/corporate-movers-usa.com\/?p=1033","title":{"rendered":"The pastry chef bringing a slice of Italy to Kensington is up for a James Beard award tonight"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Justine MacNeil\u2019s hands seem to hover over the brioche dough as she shapes it from amorphous mounds into perfectly round balls that will eventually bake into maritozzi that yawn wide with sweet cream. <\/p>\n

Read more This West Philly High graduate almost dropped out of school. Instead, he has a diploma and a full-time job.<\/a><\/p>\n

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Her touch is incredibly light. The trick, MacNeil said, is to tighten your grip on the dough almost imperceptibly as you roll it, and to avoid working on anything that isn\u2019t wood. The grain helps guide her to find the right surface tension to keep the ball firm.<\/p>\n

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Getting that feel is crucial to MacNeil, the pastry chef at Fiore, the casual Italian cafe in East Kensington that she co-owns with her husband, Ed Crotchet. There, MacNeil\u2019s commitment to Italian dessert deep cuts \u2014 marzipan-esque ricciarelli cookies, Tuscan torta della nonna, crusty schiacciata sandwich bread, and the maritozzi that are just starting to become trendy outside of Rome \u2014 draws lines out the door almost every weekend alongside praise so effusive it sounds fake.<\/p>\n

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MacNeil\u2019s flaky cornetti are \u201cthe closest you\u2019ll get to what they have in Italy,\u201d acclaimed restaurateur Greg Vernick told The Inquirer in April. They\u2018re also part of what made her a finalist for the outstanding pastry chef award at the 2026 James Beard Foundation Awards, where winners will be revealed tonight in Chicago.<\/p>\n

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MacNeil is one of seven chefs representing Philly at the awards, and one of the city\u2019s only first-time nominees. <\/p>\n

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\u201cI\u2019ve always respected the awards, but I didn\u2019t know if what we were doing would garner their attention,\u201d MacNeil, 38, told The Inquirer in May. \u201cI just never feel like where I\u2019m at is complete, like I\u2019m never going to learn it all. But [that] doesn\u2019t deter me.\u201d <\/p>\n

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MacNeil\u2019s approach stands out in the era of the social media bakery, where the internet\u2019s trend cycle seems to dictate what ought to end up in a pastry case, from brown butter or gochujang everything to morning buns shoehorned with matcha and ube fillings and cakes crusted in nonpareils.<\/p>\n

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Fiore\u2019s pastries aren\u2019t going for virality. They\u2019re faithful adaptations of Italian baked goods, a genre distinct from Italian American baking. You won\u2019t often find rainbow cookies on Fiore\u2019s menu, which can sometimes cycle through 20 unique pastries a day. But you may, for example, find Pastiera Napoletana, a time-intensive Easter pie from Naples that suspends wheat berries in a citrusy and fluffy ricotta filling.<\/p>\n

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The restaurant\u2019s old-school Italian ethos stems, in part, from MacNeil\u2019s single-minded devotion to doing things the exacting, traditional way. MacNeil tests every pastry that ends up on Fiore\u2019s menu, working from a tiny counter in the restaurant\u2019s ground-floor kitchen, that she affectionately calls \u201cthe lab.\u201d There, she makes multiple versions of a recipe with minor variations in one go so they can be compared. Often, said Crochet, only she can tell the difference.<\/p>\n

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\u201cI\u2019ve seen her do seven different versions of the same thing and taste them all side-by-side,\u201d he said. MacNeil \u201cis not reinventing the wheel. She\u2019s taking these traditional recipes, tweaking them, and making them her own by creating the best version of whatever it is.\u201d<\/p>\n

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From dance floor to pastry kitchen<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n
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Baking was not MacNeil\u2019s first plan. Dancing was. <\/p>\n

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MacNeil, who grew in Jackson, N.J., trained in ballet and Graham technique at a vocational high school and planned to study dance in college when she tore her in ACL in 2007. Sidelined and taking classes at a community college, MacNeil fell in love with baking through her best friend\u2019s mom, who taught her how to make traditional Greek cookies.<\/p>\n

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\u201cShe would always tell me, \u2018I don\u2019t know the real recipe, but here\u2019s what I did\u2019 which made so much sense in my mind. She was crafting something beautiful from memory,\u201d said MacNeil. <\/p>\n

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Plus, there was something about it that she said felt like dancing.<\/p>\n

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\u201cThere\u2019s rules, but there\u2019s fluidity and movement \u2026 I\u2019m constantly trying to feel connected to the Earth, and I think that\u2019s why I\u2019m attracted to fields where I use my body and my hands. You use your personhood to make something,\u201d she said. <\/p>\n

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MacNeil enrolled at the pastry program at New York City\u2019s International Culinary Center (then called the French Culinary Institute) a year later. After graduating, MacNeil said it took trials at \u201cat least 10\u2033 different restaurants before landing her first job in 2009: a service and pastry cook with Tom Colicchio\u2019s Craft company, where Crochet was a chef de cuisine.<\/p>\n

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Crochet said he and MacNeil barely interacted, but he was struck by the way she could immediately answer stressful questions off the top of her head, like how to accommodate a dietary restriction. MacNeil said she liked how Crochet was good at small talk. <\/p>\n

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Their relationship was a slow burn, MacNeil said. The pair didn\u2019t start dating until 2013, when she was a pastry chef at the Michelin-starred Italian restaurant Del Posto and Crochet worked next door at Colicchio & Sons. They wed in 2017.<\/p>\n

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MacNeil stayed at Del Posto for six years until 2017, ultimately becoming executive pastry chef. Working there, she said, helped her trust her palate and perspective, though she felt like she didn\u2019t put her stamp on the dessert menu until the end.<\/p>\n

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Her old co-workers beg to differ.<\/p>\n

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\u201cIf you want to know something, Don\u2019t Google it. Ask Justine,\u201d said Brooks Headley the Superiority Burger founder and former Del Posto executive pastry chef who hired MacNeil. Her superpower, he said, was ice cream. Headley, who won the Beard award for outstanding pastry chef in 2013, calls MacNeil when his restaurant\u2019s ice cream machine is on the fritz.<\/p>\n

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Kim Janusz, the pastry chef at Chicago\u2019s Beard award-winning Lula Cafe, also hangs onto MacNeil\u2019s knowledge. When they were both sous chefs at Del Posto, MacNeil taught her a hack for candying nuts that Janusz still uses to this day.<\/p>\n

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Rewriting and rebuilding<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n
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Inside Fiore\u2019s downstairs kitchen, MacNeil and two of the restaurant\u2019s bakers find a groove amid a playlist of surf rock, 2000s indie hits, and the occasional throwback R&B banger. It\u2019s a contrast, MacNeil said, to the low hum of Del Posto\u2019s service kitchen, where she recalled chefs weren\u2019t allowed to play music or talk above a whisper.<\/p>\n

Read more Hurricanes blank Golden Knights to claim Stanley Cup; coach Rod Brind\u2019Amour, GM and West Philly native Eric Tulsky among champs<\/a><\/p>\n

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Fiore\u2019s pastry room, meanwhile, is full of giggles: MacNeil laughs while showing off the team\u2019s celebrity crush-themed calendar, which a coworker designed. She chuckles and asks if she\u2019s saying too much while explaining the process for Fiore\u2019s beloved cornetti, Italian croissants that MacNeil said takes three days to make and involve laminating layers of centimeter-thick dough. She smirks while handing over a ricciarelli fresh out the oven. The traditional almond cookie from Siena, Italy, involves baking the dough at three different temperatures and tastes like a meringue. <\/p>\n

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\u201cThey\u2019ve been doing it this way for hundreds of years so I\u2019m going to do the same,” MacNeil said.<\/p>\n

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Crochet and MacNeil moved to Philly in 2017 after he was hired to lead Rat\u2019s Restaurant in Hamilton, N.J. The plan was for MacNeil to open a bakery and gelato shop, she said, until the couple realized that Philly was affordable enough to open a restaurant together. <\/p>\n

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They opened the first iteration of Fiore in 2019 as a 78-seat Italian restaurant at 757 S. Front St. with pastas, focaccia sandwiches, pastries, and sorbettos that Inquirer critic Craig LaBan said \u201cwere worth crossing town for.\u201d <\/p>\n

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The new plan was going swimmingly, MacNeil and Crochet said, until it wasn\u2019t: The restaurant had been broken into six times, and hiring after the pandemic proved difficult. And when the couple had their first son, Roman, in 2022, working 10 to 12 hours a day, between brunch and dinner service, felt untenable. <\/p>\n

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\u201cI had this idea that we would just figure it out. [Roman] would just come to the restaurant and be a nighttime kid \u2026 He\u2019ll adapt,\u201d said MacNeil. \u201cNo matter what anyone tells you, you adapt to them.\u201d<\/p>\n

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It was MacNeil\u2019s idea to close the original Fiore down in 2023 and relocate to its current location in East Kensington. Crochet said he \u201chad to be dragged kicking and screaming,\u201d but that in the end, his wife was right.<\/p>\n

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The couple reopened Fiore roughly seven months later. The most time-consuming part, Crochet recalls, was MacNeil organizing her recipes. She \u201ctook all of her notebooks that have all of her recipes in it \u2014 like hundreds and hundreds of recipes \u2014 and she bought new notebooks and just rewrote them because she felt like it was the most sensible thing to do,” he said. <\/p>\n

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Now, all of MacNeil\u2019s recipes are typed in a color-coded binder, with Post-its flagging the tiniest of revisions. All of it, she said, was part of the process, locking them in her memory and exposing holes that needed filling.<\/p>\n

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\u201cSo much of what they teach you in [culinary] school is repetition,\u201d MacNeil said. \u201cThey\u2019re all building blocks, but unless you do something a bunch of times it feels unnatural.\u201d<\/p>\n

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A brand new stage<\/h3>\n<\/div>\n
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The current Fiore has just 20 seats and functions as a daytime only catch-all restaurant, bakery, and cafe. It\u2019s also a space where MacNeil shines, handling all the bread, some pasta dough, and wintertime hot chocolate on top their rotating pastries. <\/p>\n

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Typically, MacNeil works from 6 a.m. until about 3 p.m., overseeing a kitchen that splits its days equally between baking and prepping. When The Inquirer visited in May, she and her team had already spent the day baking cornetti; buns to be stuffed for maritozzi; bomboloni; dough for pizza bianca; milk buns and schiacciata for breakfast sandwiches; and a semolina crostada cake to be coated with chocolate ganache. They all sat in neat rows on a cooling rack.<\/p>\n

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Fiore goes through 400 bomboloni, traditional Italian doughnuts, weekly. It\u2019s the most popular item on the restaurant\u2019s menu. The restaurant also goes through upward of 300 cornetti a week and 225 maritozzi, which MacNeil finds a little bemusing. Fiore sells them all day long, but in Italy, the cream-stuffed buns are a breakfast pastry.<\/p>\n

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Crochet said his wife cried when she found out she was a James Beard finalist in March. Headley \u2014 her former boss was unsurprised. \u201cEvery accolade Justine has gotten just makes me so proud,\u201d he said. \u201cYou want the people who work under you to do better than you and make you look stupid.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Headley said that moment came two years ago, when Crochet and MacNeil hosted a pop-up at Superiority Burger and he tasted slabs of her focaccia. \u201cIt tasted like floating on olive-oil flavored air with a crispy bottom,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n

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MacNeil, for her part, is focused on climbing the next hill: Mastering Zeppole di San Giuseppe, a Neapolitan Father\u2019s Day pastry that\u2019s a ring of cream-stuffed choux. It\u2019s taken five years, a trip to Naples that turned into a zeppole crawl, and a YouTube video she had to translate from Italian, but MacNeil thinks they\u2019re finally ready to leave the lab. <\/p>\n

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She has no regrets about it \u2014 or getting to Fiore\u2019s current version \u2014 taking this long.<\/p>\n

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\u201cI don\u2019t know if I could\u2019ve been able to do this if I didn\u2019t work through everything else first,\u201d MacNeil said.<\/p>\n

Read more A popular but deadly hiking trail will reopen in the Poconos<\/a><\/p>\n

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