Look what’s happened to brunch! | Let’s Eat

Philly chefs are leading a brunch renaissance, and we’re here for it.

Also in this edition:

— Mike Klein

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A new age of brunch has arrived in Philadelphia, borne on the menus of chefs who are taking this long-forgotten meal seriously — but not too seriously. Kiki Aranita shows you where they’re not only breaking eggs but new ground.

🍴 Craig LaBan’s Jersey Shore restaurant reviews continue, as he shares his 2026 findings from Long Beach Island south to Margate. The gochujang carbonara and Oaxacan meatballs at the out-of-the-way Iron Room in Atlantic City, shown above, are examples of “pure fusion fun.” Catch up with Craig here.

🍴 Where else to try: Last week in Part 1, Craig showcased seven new restaurants and an ice cream shop, all on the mainland.

🍴 What’s next: Visit Inquirer.com on Saturday morning for Part 3, in which Craig reviews 11 spots from Ocean City south to Cape May, where he found 24-karat gold atop cacio e pepe risotto.

Aperitivo, a Euro drinking tradition, is overtaking happy hour as a Philly thing. Alisha Miranda writes that more bars are embracing late-afternoon menus with lower ABV cocktails and salty snacks meant for grazing.

When dot cakes hit TikTok, local bakeries weren’t sure the sprinkle-covered dessert would amount to much. Olivia Prusky writes that some shops are even outselling cupcakes as owners race to decide which viral food trends are worth chasing.

How do you choose the right wine for frosé, the summertime cocktail staple? Marnie Old explains.

When Philadelphia’s buzziest restaurants need a beautiful menu design, they call Kylie Silvestri. The creative process is like “building the puzzle pieces,” as she told Hira Qureshi.

River Twice (1601 E. Passyunk Ave.) will revive its annual Christmas in July dinner series for a fifth year, bringing a different guest chef into the South Philadelphia restaurant each night from July 21-25. Chef Randy Rucker will begin the run with 2026 James Beard Award finalist Omar Tate and Cybille St. Aude-Tate of Honeysuckle (shown above) on July 21, followed by 2026 James Beard Emerging Chef semifinalist Frankie Ramirez of Amá (July 22), Vetri Cucina’s Jacob Rozenberg and Michal Shelkowitz (July 23), Shola Olunloyo of Studiokitchen (July 24) and 2025 Beard nominee Emmanuel Chavez of Houston’s Michelin-starred Tatemó (July 25). Randy and Amanda Rucker created the series to showcase chefs during an otherwise quiet stretch of the city restaurant calendar. Details here.

The food team’s travels took us to South Philly for hand-rolled Italian noodles, to Chinatown for saucy Northern Chinese noodles, to Ambler for watermelon gazpacho, and to Atlantic City for a perfect dirty gin martini served with a blue-cheese stuffed olive and a sidecar of gummy worms.

The Iron Oven in Southampton is planning its second location, taking the former home of Ross & Co. and Bernie’s Pub at 58 S. York Rd. in Hatboro. Sports-bar owner Alex Nalbandian thinks big: At 16,000 square feet, it’s 50% larger than his Bucks County original, which opened in 2018 on the former site of Kenny’s Bar. This Iron Oven will add a full bakery in the cellar while maintaining its phone book-size menu of 120 items. Star is a knife-and-fork-able cheesesteak (shown above) that overstuffs a pound of beef into a house-baked roll. Nalbandian said he is targeting an October opening.

At Emmett, the James Beard-nominated Mediterranean restaurant in Kensington, things are looking up. Owners Julian van der Tak and chef Evan Snyder are opening a second restaurant on the second floor. Read on for the first word about Jean, a 15-seater centered on a hearth.

Read more After the flood | Inquirer South Jersey

The roster of women bartenders who opened their own bars in South Philadelphia expands yet again. Last week, I told you about Liv Arterbridge and Gina Piccari opening the festive Mylar Bar later this summer at Ninth and Morris Streets. This week, Sam Ahern opened Lillian’s, a cozy bar/bistro across town at 19th and Mifflin. (She’s shown above, with bar manager Avdo Babic.) “I wanted something that felt like you were hanging out in somebody’s house,” said Ahern, who has set up a basic menu (try the toasts) but will rely on a series of guest chefs in the kitchen. Read on for the details.

Burrito Feliz’s shift from food truck to brick-and-mortar restaurant takes effect Sunday at 4403 Chestnut St. in University City. Miguel Nolasco is partnered with South Philly’s Brewery ARS to offer cans to go, as well as canned beer and margaritas for on-site consumption.

Sarcone’s Bakery will add baseball-inspired branding next week in an All-Star Game tie-in. Apparel company ’47 Brand will take over the South Philly landmark at 758 S. Ninth St. on Monday and Tuesday with a pop-up featuring limited-edition Sarcone’s x ’47 hats and T-shirts, available with the purchase of select bakery items including tomato pie and bread, plus an on-site heat press where customers can customize gear with exclusive patches. Hours: 11 a.m.-5 p.m. both days.

Culinary Collective, which runs commercial kitchens for culinary entrepreneurs, is teaming with Irv’s Ice Cream on an ice cream series. Each week from July 11-Aug. 7, a collective member or two will be featured in a flavor, including Mac Mart, Arsenal Coffee Roasters & the Cake Vault, Midnight Pasta, and Guilty Good Pastries. Flavors will be available for one week at Irv’s shop at 932 E. Passyunk Ave. Schedule is here.

Starr Restaurants has settled with the National Labor Relations Board over union-busting allegations at St. Alselm, its steakhouse in Washington, D.C.

Baby’s Kusina & Market in Brewerytown, which had taken a walk-in sales hit during the FIFA festivities, now says it’s temporarily closed by a flood caused by a burst pipe. Takeout is expected to resume at the end of the month as its first step back; follow its socials.

Crazy Sushi at 1837 Chestnut St. has closed after 14 years with the sale of its building, as noted on Rittenhouse Ramblings.

Little Susie’s, the fast-growing mini-chain, offers 12 varieties of pie, plus coffee, at its five walk-up windows. One early pie flavor attempt was a dud and has never been sold. What was it?

A) cannoli

B) pork roll

C) mushroom Swiss

D) peanut butter and chocolate

Find out if you know the answer.

Will Pizzeria Cusumano in Collingswood ever open? — Anthony C.

Apparently so. Back in September 2021, I reported that South Jersey pizzaiolo Sal Cusumano was planning an artisan pizzeria in a building at 872 Haddon Ave. in Collingswood. (Same article included word that Tacconelli’s Pizzeria was planning a new location in Haddon Township, and it opened in February 2023!) Zoning issues and construction tacked on years to Cusumano’s project, and now, he says, it’s down to fine-tuning the flours. He now says August.

When Franklin Fountain first opened, they made an absolutely delicious ginger ice cream — basically vanilla with bits of ginger in it. Then it went away. If you know any place else that sells it, please let me know. — Caroll D.

As a ginger-phile, I’ve been searching, too, but cannot find a comparable vanilla-ginger mix. Franklin Fountain owner Eric Berley told me that he would revive the combo (last offered pre-pandemic) someday at the Old City shop. More immediately, he is developing a combo of ginger with chocolate with Franklin sister store Shane Confectionery; there’s no release date.

Flavors change frequently. I see that the Owowcow Creamery locations in the northern burbs are dipping blackberry ice cream infused with thyme and candied ginger. The Cloud Cups locations in Kensington sell pineapple lemon ginger gelato. Malai in Rittenhouse doesn’t offer ginger, per se, but does infuse its ice creams with spices such as cardamom and mace. Perhaps Wecklerly’s will revive its ginger sesame crunch. The week-old Moment Gelato, which replaced Black Turtle Coffee just off Rittenhouse Square at 129 S. 18th St., plans to make a ginger flavor soon. Send me your ginger ice cream tips, and I’ll share with the group next week.

📮 Have a question about food in Philly? Email your questions to me at [email protected].

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