So many ice cream shops out there, and one neighborhood seems to have more than its share.
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Craig LaBan’s favorites: Our critic visited dozens of Shore restaurants, and we mapped out his picks.
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Federal and Goldie contract:The CookNSolo-founded chains are closing three stores each.
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They’re cooking: Japanese tabletop barbecue comes to the Main Line.
— Mike Klein
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We’ve found Philly’s ice cream capital
Yet another ice cream shop has opened on the Fishtown-Kensington border — this time with brownie sandwiches, gluten-free cones, and puppy popsicles all the way from Idaho. Beatrice Forman tells us what’s different about Stella’s, and what’s up with all the competition along Frankford Avenue.
Speaking of cool treats and stiff competition, give a warm welcome to Moment Gelato & Coffee, which soft-opened (is there any other kind?) last week at 129 S. 18th St. near Rittenhouse Square.
Software engineer Jack Chen and his teacher-wife, Xiaoyu Ma, have joined rich competition, what with Jeni’s, Van Leeuwen, Weckerly’s, 1-900 Ice Cream, Gran Caffe L’Aquila, Malai, and Veda nearby. Ma grew up in Kaifeng, one of China’s Eight Ancient Capitals, and says family history suggests ancestors were chefs for the emperor. The couple and their two boys are ice cream lovers, “but as a mom, I really care about what my children eat,” Ma said. She blends natural fruits in her sorbet and opts for less sugar everywhere. There are 12 flavors at all times, as well as matcha and espresso drinks (grapefruit cold brew!).
Moment Gelato & Coffee, 129 S. 18th St. Hours: 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-midnight Saturday, and 8 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday.
Craig LaBan’s favorite Shore restaurants, in one handy map
Craig LaBan visited more than two dozen restaurants from Long Beach Island to Cape May for this year’s Jersey Shore dining round-up. Here are the 27 greatest hits, wrapped up into one searchable map.
🩴 For more in-depth coverage, check out his full dispatches from the mainland, LBI to Margate, and Ocean City down Route 9.
Federal Donuts and Goldie tighten up
The CookNSolo-founded Federal Donuts & Chicken and Goldie chains are closing three stores apiece. Cofounder Steve Cook attributes the retrenchment to weakened lunch business and shifting consumer spending. CookNSolo has been the target of a boycott and demonstrations by pro-Palestinian activists, who cite the partners’ support for Israel.
Does Collingswood need bars?
Haddon Avenue in Collingswood is hopping during the day. But restaurant owners say the dinner scene is losing out, perhaps because Collingswood, unlike some neighboring areas, is dry. The matter may go to a vote, reports Zoe Rosenberg.
No one has ordered this drink yet
The Liquid Asset, on the menu at Tideline in Margate, N.J., consists of tequila, an ice cube, and a red chili pepper, and it’s $1.1 million. As Hira Qureshi writes, it’s the sidecar — in fact, a custom-built boat — that pushes up the price.
The best things we ate last week
The food team’s consumption included classic kibbeh nayyeh in Fishtown, a $150 omakase feast in Center City, excellent fried rice in South Philly, and a jar of chicken liver mousse in Old City.
Scoops
New York smashburger chain 7th Street Burger has signed its fourth lease for the Philadelphia area, in advance of a rollout. No. 1, as I noted in January 2025, is due to open in early August at 1215 Frankford Ave. in Fishtown. The second is expected to open this fall at 1518 Chestnut St., in Amma’s South Indian Cuisine’s previous space. A third is being teed up for early 2027 at Plymouth Square Shopping Center in Conshohocken, replacing the shuttered Federal Donuts & Chicken. The University of Pennsylvania has leased 3931 Walnut St. in University City, the former Hummus Grill, to 7th Street for a potential fall opening. College friends Kevin Rezvani and Paras Jain founded 7th Street with three cooks on the grill, three items on the menu, and nine ingredients in the restaurant. Signature burgers are topped with grilled onions, melted American cheese, pickles, and house sauce, and are served on a Martin’s potato roll.
Ashni Kumar and Priya Trivedi, who closed their Newtown restaurant Guru’s Indian Cuisine last December, return to Bucks County’s restaurant scene Friday with Ardas Social Kitchen at 800 Bustleton Pike in Richboro. Opening day (starting at 11:30 a.m.) will feature a pay-what-you-wish vegetarian lunch buffet and regular dinner service, with all proceeds benefiting Ivy, a senior rescue dog being treated for a seizure disorder. Ardas, as did Guru’s, operates a nonprofit, Guru’s Guardian Angels, that rescues, rehabilitates, and cares for stray animals.
Mixto, the Cuban, Latin American, and Caribbean mainstay at 1141 Pine St., closed Sunday after 26 years. Owner Jorge Mosquera and family, who announced a sale months ago, are directing aficionados to Tierra Colombiana, the restaurant they opened in 1989 at 4535 N. Fifth St. in Hunting Park. There’s a new restaurant on the way to Mixto’s space, but owners are laying low until settlement. Just down the block is Chibanos, Evan Fong Jaroff’s Chinese-Cuban sandwich shop, which took over for Effie’s earlier this month at 1127 Pine.
Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House could be moving from its home of 14 years at 1022 Race St. in Chinatown. City records show an application for a sign at 919-921 Race St., a double-wide property now undergoing renovation. It happens to be a few doors from Nan Zhou’s original home at 927 Race, where it opened around 2003. Management did not respond to my inquiry.
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Restaurant report
Ogyu Japanese BBQ & Bar, serving an all-you-can-eat menu of foods cooked on tabletop grills, has opened in the former Iron Hill in Ardmore. There’s lots of flash going on, what with the sizzling meats and flashy dry ice presentations. Denali Sagner chatted up owner Sam Li, who also owns Osushi in the same shopping strip.
Southeast Asian Market in FDR Park, which was heavily damaged in last weekend’s storm, will reopen this coming weekend, reports Kiki Aranita.
Briefly noted
RIP, Bill Curry. He fell in love with South Street in the early 1970s while covering nightlife for The Inquirer and changed careers (not entirely his choice) to open landmark eateries including Copabanana and Cafe Nola.
Queen Village (speaking of South Street) has its restaurant week from July 24-Aug. 9. See the lineup of restaurants here.
The Wicked Gluten Free Expo returns to the Greater Philadelphia Expo Center in Oaks on Saturday (10 a.m. to 5 p.m.) with 100-plus exhibitors.
From the Boothas moved its Lafayette Hill location about a mile to 400 Germantown Pike, next to Wawa in the Shops of Lafayette Hill. The family-friendly trattoria opened in 1999 and spawned an offshoot in Ambler.
HipCityVeg’s University City location at 40th and Walnut Streets just closed. A sign directs customers to 127 S. 18th St. — the first HipCityVeg and its sole remaining location.
Just Salad’s Willow Grove location, replacing Mod Pizza at 4025 Welsh Rd., will donate $1 from every in-store purchase next Wednesday to Wissahickon Trails.
Cathedral Kitchen in Camden picked up a $50,000 grant from the Jacques Pépin Foundation as one of its four 2026 Partnership Circle Grant Awardees. The nonprofit has provided culinary-arts training to unemployed and underemployed people since 2009.
YèShì Chinatown Night Markethas set Oct. 8 as its next date, with festivities centered at 10th and Race Streets.
❓Pop quiz
How many miles did Craig LaBan drive for his Jersey Shore reporting? Email your guess, and I’ll send swag to the reader with the closest answer. (I was amazed when he told me.)
Ask Mike anything
Are you aware of any lunch specials/deals in Old City or Chinatown? My office is near the Constitution Center and I get so disheartened spending $20 on a sandwich and beverage when I go out. — Madeline D.
How about a bulgogi, egg, and cheese on a bagel for under $9? That’s from Cafe Walnut, a subterranean sandwich shop at 703 Walnut St. Or a chicken burrito at Tu Rinconcito (17 N. Third St.)? My favorite budget-lunch destination in Chinatown is Yin Ji Rice Roll at 908 Cherry St. The congee ($9-$11) and rice rolls ($6-9) are filling; get a $2 fried dough stick to dip into your congee. Also worth noting: Beginning Aug. 3, Center City District’s Let’s Do Lunch promotion will return, with weekday lunches priced at $10, $15, or $20 at participating restaurants. One tip: Skip the sandwich and splurge on a typically big-portioned noodle bowl at, say, Sang Kee or Nan Zhou, neither of which is that expensive anyway; eat half and take the rest home for dinner or lunch the next day. Second tip: Skip the beverage and opt for water.
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